Philippe Ingremeau | Executive chef of Nassau Group: «I have always tried to pass on passion and a love for this beautiful profession»

After more than three decades linked to Ibiza’s gastronomy, and 18 years at the helm of the kitchens of Nassau Group, Philippe Ingremeau is saying goodbye to professional cooking. Born in Bordeaux, France, the chef is now facing his final season before retirement with the calm of someone who has seen gastronomy change, has trained teams and has made cooking a way of passing on happiness.

How and when did you arrive in Ibiza?

I arrived in December 1995 with the idea of opening a place with a friend. His parents are from Ibiza, so I came here with local support. In the end, the project did not go ahead and opening the business was not possible. I stayed here, and he returned to France a year later.

What was your first job on the island?

My first job was at Sausalito, at the end of Ibiza port. It was an emblematic place at that time. The port had just been refurbished and the restaurant, which had previously had a small terrace, became a larger venue. It was a place looking for a new lease of life. I worked there during the 1996 season, although I was not entirely convinced by what it meant to work as a chef in Ibiza.

What made you stay?

I was lucky to meet people who made me want to stay and get to know the place where I was living better. As I had people introducing me to the island, I met many people as soon as I arrived, and that helped me understand Ibiza a little more.

Ibiza has changed a lot since then. Do you think that, if today were your first day here, you would also stay?

If I were 34 today, perhaps Ibiza would seduce me. The island has changed a lot, just as life has changed in many places across Europe and the world. In 1995 there was no internet as we know it. It existed, but it was the very beginning and it was not used globally as it is now. Years later came the change to the euro and globalisation, which brought a huge transformation to the island and to the world in general. Many things have changed since then: social media, new technologies... Now people are very influenced by what they see online. Before, good places were passed on by word of mouth.

What does today’s customer look for when sitting down at the table?

Cuisine has evolved a great deal. The reality shows that appeared on television allowed non-professionals to see how kitchens work and understand how dishes are prepared. That has made people more informed. Before, customers looked for local produce and fresh fish. Today, they want more visual aesthetics, and better attention and service. They are looking for a premium experience.

You have been executive chef of Nassau Group for 18 years. How has the group evolved?

When we started, Nassau was just one venue. It is a company that has always been very self-critical and has always wanted to innovate, believe in people and delegate. All this evolution has been teamwork. From the beginning, the project kept growing and, every year or every two years, a new establishment opened. So, from one venue, we became six. With each new opening, we began a different concept. We have identified different customer profiles, and what can be offered on the island is represented in each of our venues.

What does your role involve? What is a day like for Philippe in the middle of the season?

Every day is different, we know that. In the morning, the venues open and we need an “OK” from each of them: to know that all the staff are in place, that everything is starting to work, that the products are in the cold rooms... We check that we are ready to begin service. Once the venues are up and running, we try to remain available and reactive to anything that might happen, while also working on any improvements we can make to the offer, the products and communication with suppliers and the teams working in the kitchens, which are numerous. Across all the venues, we are close to 75 people.

Many restaurants claim to use local produce in their kitchens. Is it really possible for so many of them to do so, considering the island’s territorial and agricultural limitations?

I think it is very complicated. Perhaps for some venues it is easier than for others, depending on their capacity. We have establishments with a high number of covers, and we may be able to have one dish made with a vegetable grown in our garden, or perhaps two, or part of a dish. But most will not have enough local produce available to serve it fully.

In Nassau Group’s case, you have your own vegetable garden. What do you grow there?

We grow a great deal of vegetables and different types of produce: aubergines, green peppers and Ibizan tomatoes, aromatic herbs, basil, chives, onions, beetroot, melons, pumpkins... We grow according to the seasons. We choose the vegetables and fruit to plant depending on the time of year and, once harvested, we use the produce in all Nassau restaurants.

And what happens when summer ends?

When summer ends, we continue with the garden, and both Cas Costas and Nassau, in the winter format we run, make use of all the fresh produce from the garden.

What is, for you, the best product from Ibiza’s vegetable gardens?

The red potato from Ibiza is one of the most recognised products. The Ibizan tomato also has, for me, many flavours and a very interesting texture. The green pepper from Ibiza is another star product. And I am waiting for a native black melon, which we will see in a few weeks.

Maintaining your own vegetable garden must require a huge effort. What are the main benefits of working the land in this way?

Having our own garden creates trust in the origin of the product and the certainty that no chemicals or growth accelerators have been used. It is a source of pride to be able to plant, harvest a product and serve it to our customers. ‘From the garden to the table’ was the slogan of Cas Costas some time ago, and it could not have been better chosen.

Another key word in today’s gastronomy is sustainability. How has this concept changed over the years?

Thirty years ago, when you talked about sustainability, about not wasting produce and about not working without awareness, it was considered something marginal. Over time, people have become more aware, and what was once marginal has become the norm and, in many cases, an obligation. Being aware of our impact is essential, including respecting protected species. At Nassau, for example, we stopped using Mediterranean bluefin tuna because it was somewhat endangered. This should be applied to many things. Sometimes we are consumers without limits, and sustainability brought order. It is necessary.

You are facing your final season before retirement. What do you think have been your greatest achievements?

The greatest achievement has been longevity. Being here today, still in one piece, and still enjoying the months I have left. I have lived through generational changes and I have always tried to pass on passion and a love for our profession, which I consider beautiful. I have seen chefs grow and I think I have shared with them that desire to do things well and to transmit happiness through our cooking.

You have worked with many people who have learnt from you and now have their own projects. Is there anyone you would highlight?

Many people have passed through here. It has been 19 seasons of Nassau Beach. I could mention Paco Budia, recognised with a Michelin star and currently with a Repsol Sun for his project Revés in the Canary Islands; Marc Quesada, an excellent chef who has built his career with Berasategui; Damián Martínez, my right-hand man; Sébastien Janton, head chef at Nassau Beach Club... Also Gabriel Sousa, first chef at Tanit Beach, who has been with us for many years; and Nico Taberner, from Cas Costas, who earned a Repsol Solete this past winter. He has stepped back a little, although not completely, from the Cas Costas kitchen to move into the executive kitchen structure of Nassau Group. In short, there is a large group of people with whom we have had, and still have, a wonderful relationship and a love for the profession that makes everything work well.

Will you remain connected to cooking in some way?

I have no idea. At home I will cook, of course, but not professionally. Now a new chapter begins. My vegetable garden, nature and a different kind of time are waiting for me, with the same excitement I had when I first arrived in Ibiza. Cooking has taught me that everything has its moment, and this is the moment to enjoy what has been sown.

What message would you give to young people who want to become chefs?

Be passionate, have patience and do not hesitate to enrich yourselves with other culinary cultures by working and travelling. It is a job that can be considered sacrificial, because you are always working at the opposite time to those who go out and have dinner. They enjoy themselves, and you work to make that moment happy for them. That is the contradiction of the profession. You make others happy and you enjoy it in your own way. Even so, I believe that life as a chef is getting better and better. I encourage young people to choose this profession, but they must be aware of what it involves.

What would you like to remain of you in the kitchens of Nassau Group when you are no longer at the helm?

I do not know how to answer that question. I keep thinking about it and I do not have an answer. The future will decide whether my mark remains, but I do not know what I can leave there. I would like a good feeling to remain: for people to remember our moments and keep moving forward. The energy is there.

Is there anything you would like to say to the people who have trusted you?

I want to sincerely thank Xumeu and Pilar, with whom this story began when Nassau was still a small kiosk by the sea. And, of course, Christian and Mucki Braun, for trusting me, for giving me the opportunity to be part of the birth of Nassau Beach Club and to accompany the growth of what is now Nassau Group Ibiza. Thank you for these 18 years of work, learning and memories. It has been a true privilege to walk this path by your side. Thank you to everyone who has been part of this story. It has been a real privilege to share these years with you. We will meet again. But for now… merci.

Will you stay connected to Ibiza?

I will always be connected to Ibiza. I cannot erase 31 years in one go. Besides, my daughter is in Ibiza, and she is truly the greatest event of my life, so I will always be linked to the island.